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Walking in Sardinia

AuthorPaddy Dillon
PublisherCicerone Press
ISBNISBN-13: 978 1 85284 619 0
Also available in eBook and Kindle formats
Price£14.95
The beautiful and exceptionally rugged coastline of Ogliastra.

The beautiful and exceptionally rugged coastline of Ogliastra.

Walking from Punta Ortu Camminu to Monte Corrasi above Oliena.

Walking from Punta Ortu Camminu to Monte Corrasi above Oliena.

Gennargentu, streaked with snow, the highest mountains on Sardinia.

Gennargentu, streaked with snow, the highest mountains on Sardinia.

For many years people regarded Sardinia as astoundingly beautiful, exceptionally rugged, and something of a nightmare to explore. Broad tracks often led to networks of paths, many of which simply petered out in the dense macchia. When I was asked to check out a selection of walking routes on the island, my experience matched that of so many previous visitors. However, I was lucky, as part-way through my initial exploration, I literally stumbled across a newly-planted signpost, and later discovered that an extensive network of waymarked trails was being blazed across the island.

My first visit to Sardinia was largely concentrated around the limestone coastal region of Ogliastra, and the rugged mountains of the Supramonte further inland. Although it was early summer, the temperature soared and the heat made any kind of exertion quite tiring. Towards the end I headed further inland, to the high mountains of Gennargentu, in the hope of catching a cooling breeze. My next visit took place at the tail-end of winter. It was still quite warm down by the coast, while inland the mountains were streaked with snow. In fact, for three nights running there were fresh snowfalls, so that all the high mountains were completely covered.

Sardinia is a huge island - the same size as Wales, but more difficult to get around because the roads are so convoluted and slow. Having met many walkers who were burning themselves out by trying to discover walks all the way round the island in periods of only one or two weeks, it seemed best to concentrate on the highest and wildest regions, where some of the most scenic and most popular walks are located. The fifty routes in the guidebook are spread around the Ogliastra, Supramonte and Gennargentu regions, stretching from the cliff coastline to the highest mountains. Some of the paths need to be followed carefully through dense macchia, while others are fully signposted and waymarked.

While following routes through the mountains of Sardinia, walkers often discover fascinating archaeological sites. There are Neolithic rock tombs, or ‘domus de janas’, as well as stone-built burial chambers, or ‘tomba dei giganti’, along with prominent and sometimes extensive defensive Bronze Age ‘Nuraghic’ settlements. The route descriptions mention such sites, as well as all the useful facilities along the way, such as handy bars and restaurants, bus services and accommodation.

Walk Contents

Walk 1 Monte Ortobene from Nuoro
Walk 2 Monte Corrasi from Oliena
Walk 3 Punta Ortu Camminu and Sos Nidos
Walk 4 Punta Cusidore from Monserrata
Walk 5 Tiscali from Valle di Lanaittu
Walk 6 Tiscali via Scala de Surtana
Walk 7 Gola de Su Gorropu
Walk 8 Dorgali, Monte Bardia and Cala Gonone
Walk 9 Dorgali and Cala Gonone
Walk 10 Genna ‘e Petta and Sa Portiscra
Walk 11 Codula Luna and Cala Gonone
Walk 12 Cala Sisine, Cala Luna and Cala Gonone
Walk 13 Giustizieri and Sa Coronas
Walk 14 Genna Silana to Genna Croce
Walk 15 Coile Orbisi and Sa Pischina
Walk 16 Fennau, Televai and Urzulei
Walk 17 Talana and Nuraghe Bau e Tanca
Walk 18 Monte Olinie to Coe Serra
Walk 19 Talana and Coe Serra
Walk 20  Sa Mola and Paule Munduge
Walk 21  Santa Maria and Monte Oro
Walk 22  Baunei and Punta Giradili
Walk 23  Irbidossili and Cala Goloritzè
Walk 24 Golgo and Cala Goloritzè
Walk 25 Serra Ovara and Cala Sisine
Walk 26 Genna Sesole to Golgo
Walk 27 Genna Ramene to Golgo
Walk 28 Triei and Osono
Walk 29 Perda Pera and Monte Arista
Walk 30 Ulassai, Canyon and Punta Matzeu
Walk 31 Ulassai and Baulassa
Walk 32 Osini and Nuraghe Serbissi
Walk 33 Taquisara and Is Tostoinus
Walk 34 Perda Liana from Genna Filigi
Walk 35 Laconi and Santa Sofia
Walk 36 Funtanamela and Gurduxiones
Walk 37 Punta La Marmora from Bruncu Spina
Walk 38 Punta La Marmora from Sa Crista
Walk 39 Punta La Marmora from Cuile Meriagus
Walk 40 Arcu Guddetorgiu and Bruncu Furau
Walk 41 Monte Spada from Genna Luddurreo
Walk 42 Tonara and Punta Muggianeddu
Walk 43 Baueri, Passo Perdu Abes and Tonara
Walk 44 Meana Sardo to Aritzo
Walk 45 Aritzo and Geratzia
Walk 46 Teti and S’Urbale
Walk 47 Teti and Craru Eridunele
Walk 48 Sorradile and Bidoni
Walk 49 Sedilo to Ponte Fiume Taloro
Walk 50 Sedilo and Nuraghe Iloi