Trekking in Greenland - Arctic Circle Trail
Author | Paddy Dillon |
Publisher | Cicerone Press |
ISBN | ISBN-13: 978 1 85284 624 4 (First Edition)
ISBN-13: 978 1 85284 967 2 (Second Edition) Also available in eBook and Kindle formats |
Price | £16.95 |
A fleet of free canoes is provided on the large lake of Amitsorsuaq.
Descending towards the Itinneq river between two low ranges of mountains.
A nameless river in a nameless valley flanked by nameless mountains.
It was on a hot day on the Canary island of El Hierro that I first heard about Greenland’s Arctic Circle Trail from a German tour guide. I spent the rest of the day thinking cool thoughts and knew that I would walk the trail during its next brief summer window. I was pleasantly surprised, while looking for maps, to discover that the best available for the trail had been drawn by Harvey Maps.
The Arctic Circle Trail is indeed north of the Arctic Circle, running between the main international airport, Kangerlussuaq, to one of the largest towns in the country, Sisimiut. In between the two is empty and exceptionally beautiful rolling tundra. Nearby mountains are impressive, but don’t need to be climbed, as this is essentially a low-level route, and many of the valleys are filled with amazing lakes. A fleet of canoes is provided on the longest lake, for those who prefer to paddle rather than walk. The wildlife on the trail, dominated by reindeer, is often very approachable.
For such a remote trail, the Arctic Circle Trail draws people from all parts of Europe and North America, and all of them are completely self-sufficient backpackers. Almost everyone carries a tent and sleeping bag, along with all the food they need, but there are also basic huts along the trail, as well as edible mushrooms and berries. Early summer can be a problem as streams must be forded while they are swollen with melt-water. Soon afterwards, millions of mosquitoes plague the route. The best time to explore is between mid-August and mid-September.
As soon as I landed at Kangerlussuaq I dashed off to climb the Sugar Loaf. Next day I covered the whole distance to the Ice Cap. I wanted to extend the Arctic Circle Trail so that I walked all the way from the edge of the Ice Cap to the sea beyond Sisimiut. Kangerlussuaq features some of the most stable and clear weather in Greenland, while it tends to be more mixed towards the coast at Sisimiut, and that was my experience walking the route. While exploring around Sisimiut I took the opportunity to climb the rocky peak of Kællingehætten.
Most people would fly from Sisimiut back to Kangerlussuaq, or join a cruise heading northwards to the ice fjord of Ilulissat. I enjoyed walking the Arctic Circle Trail so much that I simply had to walk all the way back and enjoy it all a second time!
While the entire trail was walked again for the second edition of the guidebook, there have been changes to the trail quite recently. An ATV road has been constructed between Kangerlussuaq and Sisimiut. This will be noticed on the way to Hundesø, then it parts company with the Arctic Circle Trail until after Eqalugaarniarfik, when it basically follows the same line as the trail all the way to Sisimiut. A more southerly variant has been established between Eqalugaarniarfik and Kangerluarsuk Tulleq, avoiding the ATV road. This will be described in a future edition.
GPX tracks are available for this route. They can be downloaded from the Cicerone website.
Walk Contents
Ascent of Sugar Loaf | |
Ice Cap to Kangerlussuaq | |
Day 1 | Kangerlussuaq to Hundesø |
Day 2 | Hundesø to Katiffik |
Day 3 | Katiffik to Canoe Centre |
Day 4 | Canoe Centre to Ikkattook |
Day 5 | Ikkattooq to Eqalugaarniarfik |
Day 6 | Eqalugaarniarfik to Innajuattok |
Day 7 | Innajuattok to Nerumaq |
Day 8 | Nerumaq to Kangerluarsuk Tulleq |
Day 9 | Kangerluarsuk Tulleq to Sisimiut |
Ascent of Nasaasaaq |