This is one of three guidebooks that replaces Walking in the Canary Islands - West. An update to the original guidebook was planned, then shelved, as the authorities in the Canary Islands embarked on an ambitious plan to signpost and waymark a splendid network of trails across the entire archipelago. The island of La Palma led the way, establishing a trail network as long ago as 1999, which has attracted the attention of discerning walkers in ever greater numbers.

La Palma has the reputation of being one of the steepest islands on the planet, and naturally, walking on the island must involve some steep ascents and descents. Fortunately, over the centuries, paths and tracks have been blazed up and down the mountains, from village to village, taking the best lines and zigzagging to ease the gradients. In the past, it was always easier to walk over the highest mountains to get round the island, rather than to pick a way across the rugged slopes, which are often cut by deep and steep-sided barrancos.

The trail network on La Palma includes the GR 131, climbing from sea level to the highest mountain, then staying on the high crest of the island back down to the sea. It is one of seven stages of a route planned to cross all seven of the Canary Islands, and it can be completed in three days. The GR 130 offers a circular walk all the way round La Palma, crossing ancient slopes carved deep with barrancos, as well as slopes of lava and ash dating only from the 20th century. The route takes over a week to walk. An excellent network of shorter ‘PR’ routes is based on traditional paths and mule tracks, spreading to all parts of the island.

The middle of La Palma features a huge valley carved deep into the mountains, surrounded by cliffs, with very few points of access. This is the Caldera de Taburiente, protected as a national park. A series of routes allow it to be explored, but to make the most of this area, it is necessary to camp at the heart of it. The whole of La Palma is a World Biosphere Reserve, and several parts of the island enjoy a high level of protection.

As La Palma lies at the remote western end of the Canary Islands, it is often overlooked by visitors, who tend to head for the big, brash islands. This is a pity, since La Palma is a fascinating place to explore, despite the rigours of its steep trails, and it is well worth making the effort to explore it earlier, rather than later.

Bear in mind that following the volcanic eruption in 2021, some trails are currently closed. Check the situation in advance of a visit at www.senderosdelapalma.es